The face seen from the Liason cable car station. The peak to the right is the Index
Today we succeeded We succeeded in our goal of skiing this little known yet handsome SE Couloir of the Gliere. This, unlike most of the lines I have skied in the Aiguilles Rouges is actually reasonably involved with a few pitches of steep “no fall” skiing near the top. This was a great place to find my bindings weren’t properly set up and occasionally I would land a jump turn free-heel. Scary. We had been up to this couloir two days previously but found there was too much fresh snow and quickly realized we should be tree skiing. We turned back after three turns and ran back to the resort. Ross still got a few photo’s here….
Today was different. We had a clear view of where to go and how to get there (today I’m working so technically this was done on my lunch break!) and with the track already in from the top of the Cornu chair in Brevent we were up and starting to ski in no time. The snow was very firm at the top but got better the further down we got. Still it was an awesome line and well worth the effort. Here are some shots….
Take one, dropping in to the top of the couloir the first time. To much snow and avi risk to high so side steeped out after 3 turns.From the Col du lac Cornu looking over the the Aiguille de la Gliere which is the peak on the right in the distance.This time it was Ross’ turn to go first.Steep section near the topMiddle sectionLower exit Couloir.
Talung in far Eastern Nepal Stands at 7349m and is yet to receive a successful ascent of its north face despite a few very strong Czech teams making attempts. Myself, James and Gavin hope to make an alpine style ascent of the prominent 1800m North Pillar. Fingers crossed for a good trip!
Tommorow I will be departing for my most epic adventure to date. Myself, Gavin Pike and James Clapham will be boarding a plane to Kathmandu in Nepal from where we will take another plane ride east to Taplejung. From here a 1.5 day jeep ride to the end of the road at Gopetar. Then begins the 10 day trek to Ramche which will be our basecamp for the proceeding month and is some 15km from the base of the north face of Talung, our proposed objective for this November.
I have never been on expedition before. I have never been to a third world country before. I have never tried to climb a new route and I have never been higher the 4810m (I.e the top of Mont Blanc!). The whole trip should really push my comfort zone and open my eyes to a new world of possibilities regardless of success or failure. I’m not without my worries about how I will cope with the stresses and strains and extra altitude but I feel I am approaching everything with an open mind and a willingness to learn. James and Gav have both been to Alaska twice before and they know part of what is involved in the process but for myself my ventures into the mountains have only lasted a few days at most.
This expedition has been a long time in the pipeline and I remember when we first came to the decision we were going to do the trip. I remember it vividly in fact as I was in a pit of despair in early December last year after fracturing my Tibial Plateau in a ski crash which put me on my biggest layoff from the mountains in 3 years. Towards the end of my week long hospital stay Gav asked me whether I wanted to join them for this expedition. I immediately agreed. This trip and the thought of getting back on the ski’s again were the driving forces behind my thankfully speedy recovery.
The metal work that is still holding my knee together.
This autumn has been a total washout so fair with only a handful of good weather days so far and lots of fresh snow to contend with. Getting out to do anything “big” has been next to impossible. Its been a haze of sport climbing, drytooling and “Col du Midi Alpine Cragging”. My hunger for a big route is bigger than ever right and is giving me enthusiasm beyond that that I have felt for any trip into the alps I’ve had so far.
Climbing with Emily on the Tacul Triangle.
I’ve also never had to pack like this for. You have to think about every thing you’ll need for a big new route and also what you’ll want in basecamp to live in the mountains for 7 weeks. It’s been a long process of preparing, packing, repacking, pairing down and adding more and it’s still not over. I’m also moving out of my current apartment in Chamonix when I leave so there is a lot to sort out over the next few hours!
I’ve also been slightly worried about my current body weight which is perfect for sport climbing but doesn’t give me a huge amount of fat reserves to work with out in Nepal. So its been melted ice cream, eclairs, cheese and chips to try and pile a bit of much needed bivi fat on in the past few days.
We won’t be in contact with the outside world when we are in basecamp unless there is a problem (we have a satellite phone but we are planning not to use it). I’ll be doing a trip report on here when I’m back in mid December.
Still it is with great trepidation that I say goodbye to Chamtown and all its residents and mountains. With the recent snowfall and the Season pass bought I’m already looking forward to the adventures that will happen this winter.
This autumn has been a bit of a washout so far. I’ve not heard of any big routes being done on any of the big faces as it’s either been too hot, wet, windy or snowy to make going into the mountains for a big route a sensible thing to do. It has given me the chance to focus on some other aspects of climbing and also given me time to get stronger and fitter through numerous Drytooling and Sport climbing sessions and the odd foray to the ever fruitful and reliable Tacul Triangle.
Sending my M10 project at the Zoo after numerous falls including one where I had my finger through the chain! Photo, Ross HewitMe and Ross bundled up for a blustery day on the Tacul Triangle. This was the first time Ross had been in the mountains for 4 months. So I thought we’d do something easy to warm up…….James Clapham on point on the First Pitch of Les Temps est Assassin on the Tacul Triangle. Photo Ross Hewitt.Myself on the 2nd pitch. When this route is in good ice conditions its apparently a grade 4 romp. As you can see from the photo the tide was well and truly out and all that was left was a verglased corner crack which took neither cam nor hand nor tool very well. I was left high and dry so to speak. Ahem. Still, it made for a great fight and I was pretty happy to finish it off after nearly falling off several times along the way……Scotty tech 8 maybe? Photo Ross Hewitt
So all in all not much to report in the mountains apart from there is a lot of snow and most things should be in pretty good condition due to the freeze thaw cycle and the snow limmit being around the magic 24-2700m mark. I’m feeling pretty primed and ready to go as soon as the weather gets good!!
I Leave you all with this… for those of you who haven’t heard or seen what myself, James Clapham and Gavin Pike are off to try this autumn here’s the best photo we have so far……
Talung, in far Eastern Nepal, stands at 7349m and is yet to receive a successful ascent of its north face despite a few very strong Czech teams making attempts. Myself, James and Gavin hope to make an alpine style ascent of the prominent 1800m North Pillar. Fingers crossed for a good trip! Photo Copyright Billy Roos
Johnny V on the 2nd Pitch of Amazonia in the Envers Des Aiguilles.
The unusually high temperatures we have been experiencing this month have really drained me. I’m much more of a cold weather person so finding psyched to trudge about on a falling apart glacier in the baking heat is difficult. Luckily Chamonix provides ample opportunities to find perfect granite with minimal glacial faff and a fine place to look is the Envers Des Aiguilles. This past trip with kayaking legend and general cool guy Johnny Vincent is the third time that I’ve been to the Envers this summer and this short trip provided us with a great route and an opportunity to hunt the elusive chickens that can often be found stuck in up to there necks in the granite.
We chose the route Amazonia on the first point of the Nantillons which is a stunning 370m 6a on pristine granite with a mixture of cracks and slabs (Michel Piola waz ‘ere but must have been having an off day as the slab pitches aren’t sandbags for a change!).
We started at about 8pm and with all told made it back to the train in good time so this route is a good day route to do at the end of a trip to the Envers if your reasonably efficient (which we weren’t as I got us lost at one point, dropped my belay plate and generally was a little spaced out due to the heat and having just finished work in time to get the last lift the day before, hense not feeling like much of a winner). Here’s some photo’s….
In the Envers refuge wondering why I can’t make head nor tail of the guidebook I brought.Super fun Climbing.John Vincent dodging belay plates.Poser.We found the chickens. They were amazing.Team summit shot.
Thanks John for a great day. Sorry for all my screw ups but at least we made it back down to the train on time.
The weather is getting cooler now and it feels a lot more like autumn which is very good in my opinion. Getting pretty motivated for some big face action and the Himalaya’s…..
The Aiguille du Chardonnet, The Forbes Arete is the left hand skyline ridge.
Summer alpinism is here!! Long, sweaty approaches, manky snow conditions and rainy afternoons. Still its all good fun and with the longest of days upon us getting out for a classic alpine route seems to good to pass up. My original plan was to solo the Migot Spur but with high temps forecasted I didn’t fancy A) walking across a glacier by myself or B) climbing on a north face. Luckily my good buddy Ben O’Connor Croft (of Petit Dru North Face fame) was able to make it out so we headed up to the Albert Premier hut for a Sunday night bivying on the rocks…..Continue reading
Betty the Berlingo and the Verdon Gorge. Can’t think of a better way to spend the weekend. Photo Davide De Masi.
Despite working full time at the moment (well four days a week but still, ugh), I’ve still managed to get out and about climbing some of chamonix’s premier slitter and pocket pulling in the Verdon gorge. The summer is in full swing now and its hot hot hot! Good for climbing granite in the mountains but not so conducive for southern french limestone adventure sport which is where this tale begins…..Continue reading
Just got back from a super fun trip in the Envers des Aiguilles. Despite being shut down by the weather on both our climbing days spirits ran high and many fun pitches of granite climbing was experienced. I’m a big fan of this zone and i’ll be back soon for sure. Maybe with a lighter pack, warmer weather, less snow and a more stable weather forecast!!
Still pretty snowy on the walk in but not too bad.
Its been a slow few weeks mountains wise. Lots of snow has been falling and lots of leaving party’s to go to. Productivity has been low and therefor stuff to write about has been few and far between. Two days ago the clouds parted and the promise of good conditions saw me getting ready for a big day off the Midi. With my knee feeling good I was very psyched to get up and have a productive day. I meet my Friend Ross Hewitt and Si Christy. Continue reading
I’ve been back in Chamonix for a couple of weeks now and it has been more or less solid work during this super busy holiday period. This week however I managed to make it out for a few hours of skiing! I have been working really hard on the physio and things are feeling really good. It seemed quite apt that my first days skiing since I broke my leg was at the Le Tour baby slope. This is where skiing started for me 4 years ago so it was a bizarre feeling to be starting all over again in the same place. The day after Le Tour I headed out for another ski at Brevent, which again went really well I even skied a black run. I’m so happy with how things have progressed since my injury and also very surprised by how quickly I have returned to sport. My surgeon told me initially that I wouldn’t be doing any sport untill at least 6 months after my op. It turned out to be 2 months and 12 days. There is still a way to go before I am back to my normal pace but I really can’t complain.
I’m looking forward to getting out in the big mountains again soon but for the mean time its more pistes and one legged squats!!
Riding the button lift at Le Tour. Where it all started.
I have had a dream year out in Chamonix skiing and climbing with my friends, but like all good things they eventually come to an end, or so I’ve been told. I never really believed ‘them’, my youthful arrogance or general positive nature persuaded me that I would continue learning, getting stronger and climbing and skiing harder. I have not been injured for some three years now and to this date I have never sustained an injury from climbing. On Saturday the 10th however I managed to ‘accomplish’ my first ‘Season Ender’ in a particularly unspectacular skiing crash at the Grand Montets ski area in Chamonix. I managed to break my leg hitting a rock whilst skiing some questionably worthwhile off-piste on my second run of the second day’s skiing this season. I have been informed that I take this years prize of “le premier genoude la saison ” I.e the first knee of the season. Here’s how it happened.
I have kept a kind of journal since the accident. I’m not looking for sympathy from posting it and yes I know people have had worse experiences but it has taken a lot of courage form me to post this here for the world to see. Here it is.
